ANT PEST CONTROL

Ants are classified as omnivores, which means their diet comes from a variety of plants and animals. Ants are foragers by nature. Worker ants leave the nest in search of food sources, leaving what is called a “chemical trail” (pheromones), which other ants can pick up on and follow to food sources. Once the food is found, the ant will return to the nest, and other ants will work in shifts to follow the trails, retrieve food to bring back to the nest, and lay new chemtrails for the ants to follow. This is often why you see ants travelling in a single-line formation, following the exact path of the ones before them.

The common black ant can live for up to 15 years, and the Queen ant can even live for double that. In its lifecycle, the ant undergoes a complete metamorphosis, which has four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and finally, adult.

Ants are classified as a superorganism because they form colonies ranging in size from a few dozen to millions. Ant species, their genetics, and the weather where they are located can all dramatically influence the size of a colony. A “supercolony” can also occur when multiple ant colonies unite.

Ant bites or stings can vary in size, colour, and reaction severity, depending on the species of ant you’ve been bitten by. You may experience reactions to ant bites ranging from small bumps on the skin that can become red and itchy to more painful reactions like fluid/puss-filled blisters.

It has been said that white vinegar or essential oils can be used in a diluted solution to repel ants. Unfortunately, these natural options don’t really have a lasting effect and need frequent usage to maintain any repellent qualities.

Finding little black ants in the home is often the result of improper food storage. They will often enter the house in search of food and water supplies. They are quite an opportunistic species and will seek out crumbs, spoiling food, or liquids that may have been spilled and not cleaned up properly.

• The outside part of the treatment controls most ant issues by using nonrepellent transfer chemicals to reduce or eliminate the colonies.
• The full result of the treatment can take up to 4 weeks.
• Targeted spot treatments inside can also be done using different gel baits depending on the ant species present at the time.

• Ants are very tidy and like to keep their trails inside the walls, clear of dirt/dead ants, etc.
• Spraying the house for ants will stop this from happening.
• Ants could still be dying for up to 4 weeks after the treatment. This is normal.

We treat the perimeter walls of the house, under the eaves, gutters, garden areas around the perimeter of the house walls, and the base of the internal walls. We also fumigate the roof and wall voids.

Outdoor Preparation

• Remove all clothes, pet bowls, and children’s toys from outside the house. Close all windows and bring children and pets inside.
• Clean the floors before the day of the treatment as it will need to be left for at least one week before moping.

Internal preparation

• Cover/put away all food, baby toys, and feeding items.
• Kids must leave the house for at least 2 hours before the inside part of the treatment starts.
• Pets must be put outside.
• The tidier the house, the more thorough the treatment.

Most of the year, the spray will dry within 15 minutes and is not dangerous to dogs or cats.

The chemicals have next to no smell, and most chemicals we use are water-based.